Water Pump Not Working? Essential Troubleshooting for a Reliable Water Supply

The rhythmic hum of a well-functioning water pump is often taken for granted—until it falls silent. For homes, especially in Kenya, that rely on borehole, well, or booster pumps, a sudden loss of water can range from a minor inconvenience to a major crisis. When your water pump not working, it means no showers, no clean dishes, and no water for daily needs. It’s a frustrating and often alarming experience.

At Winstar Hardware, we understand the critical role a reliable water supply plays in your home. We’re here to empower you with the knowledge and the right tools to keep your water flowing. This comprehensive guide is designed for homeowners experiencing the panic of a water pump not working. We’ll walk you through essential water pump troubleshooting steps, help you identify common issues, and guide you on when to roll up your sleeves with tools from Winstar Hardware, and when to call a professional for complex borehole pump not working issues.

Table of Contents

What to Do First When Your Water Pump Not Working

Before diving into complex diagnostics, let’s cover the initial, crucial steps. When you discover your water pump not working, avoid panic and follow this quick checklist:

Check for Power: This might seem obvious, but it’s often overlooked. Is the pump plugged in? Is the circuit breaker tripped? A simple flick of a switch could be all it takes.
Listen to Your Pump: Does it make any sound at all – a hum, a click, or complete silence? This auditory cue can provide valuable diagnostic information.
Check Water Levels (if applicable): For borehole or well pumps, ensure there’s actually water available. A dry well will, naturally, prevent your water pump not working.
Isolate the Problem: Is it all water fixtures, or just one? This helps determine if the issue is the pump itself or a localized plumbing problem.

Once these basics are covered, we can delve deeper into specific troubleshooting steps.

Understanding Your Water Pump:

To effectively troubleshoot, it helps to know the basics of how your water pump operates. While various types exist, they generally function to move water from a source (borehole, well, tank) to your home or another storage tank.

Common Types of Water Pumps in Kenyan Homes:

Submersible Pumps: These are fully submerged in the water source (borehole, well). They push water upwards. They are common for deep boreholes and wells.

Surface/Booster Pumps: These sit above ground and pull water from a shallow source or boost pressure from a storage tank to your house. They are often used to increase pressure from a rooftop tank or a municipal supply.

Centrifugal Pumps: A broad category, many surface pumps are centrifugal, using impellers to create suction and pressure.

Jet Pumps: A type of surface pump that uses an ejector (jet) assembly to create suction, often used for shallower wells.

Key Components to Know (Generally):

Motor: Powers the pump.
Impeller(s): Rotates to create pressure and move water.
Pressure Switch: Controls the pump, turning it on when pressure drops and off when it reaches a set level (common in systems with pressure tanks).
Pressure Tank: Stores water under pressure, reducing pump cycling and maintaining consistent pressure.
Check Valve: Prevents water from flowing backward into the well/borehole when the pump turns off.
Foot Valve: Located at the bottom of the suction line in a well, it holds the prime (water in the suction line) and filters out large debris.

Knowing these basics will help you understand the potential issues when your water pump not working. Read this article by JEE Pumps to better understand the different parts of a pump.

1 . No Power: The Silent Pump

The most straightforward reason your water pump not working is a lack of power. If your pump is completely silent, with no hum or click, this is your first suspect.

Why It Happens:

Tripped Circuit Breaker: Pumps draw significant amperage, especially during startup. A momentary surge or an overloaded circuit can cause the breaker to trip. This is a common occurrence.
Blown Fuse: Older systems might use fuses instead of breakers.
Power Outage: Check if other appliances in your home or neighboring houses also lack power.
Loose Wiring: Vibrations or corrosion can loosen electrical connections over time.
Motor Overload: If the pump motor overheats due to a jam or continuous running, its internal thermal overload protector might trip, shutting down the motor to prevent damage.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Check the Breaker/Fuse Box:

Locate the circuit breaker panel or fuse box. Find the breaker labeled for your water pump (it might be labeled “well,” “pump,” or “boiler”). If it’s in the “off” or middle position, flip it completely off, then firmly back to “on.” If it immediately trips again, do not keep resetting it. This indicates a short circuit or a serious issue that requires professional attention. For fuses, replace any blown fuse with one of the correct amperage.

Test the Outlet (if applicable):

If your pump plugs into an outlet, test the outlet with another appliance to ensure it has power. If it’s a GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) outlet, press the “reset” button.

Inspect Visible Wiring:

Only if you are comfortable and trained to do so, and with the power completely off at the main breaker. Carefully inspect the pump’s power cord and visible wiring for any cuts, fraying, or loose connections.

Check for Overload Reset Button:

Some pumps have a small red or black reset button on the motor casing. If the pump stopped due to overheating, pressing this button might reset it after it has cooled down.

Dangers of Ignoring: Repeatedly resetting a tripping breaker can cause serious electrical damage or fire hazards. A constantly overheating motor can fail completely.

When to Call a Plumber/Electrician:

If the breaker repeatedly trips, if you find damaged wiring, or if there’s no power despite all these checks, it’s time to call a plumber (who often handles pump electrics) or a qualified electrician. They can safely diagnose complex electrical faults.

2. Pump Runs But No Water (or Low Pressure)

This is a common and frustrating scenario: you hear your pump running, but there’s no water coming out of the taps, or the pressure is extremely low. This usually points to an issue with the pump’s ability to “prime” itself, meaning it can’t create or hold suction.

Why It Happens:

Loss of Prime: Surface pumps (like jet pumps) need to be filled with water (primed) to create suction. If the water level in the well drops too low, a check valve fails, or there’s an air leak in the suction line, the pump can lose its prime.
Low Water Level in Well/Borehole: The most fundamental reason your borehole pump not working is that there isn’t enough water to pump. This can happen during dry seasons or if the well’s recovery rate is slow.
Clogged Suction Line/Foot Valve: Debris (silt, sand, leaves) can clog the foot valve at the bottom of the well or the suction line itself, preventing water from reaching the pump.
Failing Impeller/Pump Components: Over time, the internal components (impellers, diffusers) can wear out or become damaged, reducing the pump’s efficiency and ability to generate pressure.
Air Leaks in Suction Line: Even a tiny leak in the pipe between the water source and a surface pump can allow air to be drawn in, preventing proper suction.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Check Well/Borehole Water Level:

If safe to do so, check if there’s sufficient water. For boreholes, this might require professional equipment. For shallow wells, you might be able to visually inspect or use a weighted line. If the well is dry, the pump needs time to rest and for the water table to recover.

Re-prime the Pump (Surface Pumps):

Turn off power to the pump.
- Locate the prime plug (usually a small cap on top of the pump housing).
- Remove the plug and slowly fill the pump with water using a bucket or hose until it overflows.
- Replace the plug, turn on the power, and listen. It may take a few minutes to regain pressure.
- If it loses prime quickly, suspect an air leak or a faulty check valve.

Inspect Visible Suction Lines:

Look for any obvious leaks or damage to the pipe leading from the source to the pump.

Listen for Air:

If you hear a gurgling or sucking sound while the pump is running, it could indicate air being drawn in.

Dangers of Ignoring: Running a pump dry (without water) can cause severe damage to the motor and internal components, leading to complete failure.

When to Call a Plumber:

If you’ve tried re-priming several times without success, suspect a low well level, or if you suspect a damaged impeller or a leak in a buried suction line, it’s time to call a plumber. They have specialized tools for well level detection, pressure tank inspection, and internal pump repairs.

3. Pump Cycles On and Off Frequently (Short Cycling)

If your water pump not working in a consistent manner, but rather turning on and off rapidly, it’s known as “short cycling.” This isn’t just annoying; it puts immense strain on your pump motor and greatly reduces its lifespan.

Why It Happens:

Waterlogged Pressure Tank: This is the most common cause. A pressure tank contains an air bladder that separates air from water. If this bladder ruptures or loses its air charge, the tank becomes waterlogged and can’t effectively store pressure, causing the pump to cycle constantly to maintain system pressure.
Pressure Switch Malfunction: The pressure switch might be faulty, having incorrect cut-in/cut-off settings, or a clogged sensing tube, causing it to misread pressure changes.
Small Leak in the System: Even a tiny, continuous leak somewhere in your plumbing system (e.g., a running toilet, dripping faucet, or hidden pipe leak) will cause a constant, slight drop in pressure, triggering the pump to turn on frequently.
Undersized Pressure Tank: If the pressure tank is too small for the pump and household demand, it will naturally short cycle more often.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Check for Leaks:

Perform a thorough leak check throughout your home. Check toilets (using food coloring in the tank), faucets, showerheads, and any outdoor spigots. Look for wet spots around the water heater, under sinks, or in your basement/crawl space.

Inspect Pressure Tank:

Turn off power to the pump.
- Find the air valve on the top of the pressure tank (looks like a tire valve).
- Press the pin. If water comes out, the bladder is ruptured, and the tank needs replacement.
- If air comes out, use a tire gauge to check the pressure (should be 2 PSI below the pump’s cut-in pressure). If low, recharge it with an air compressor (with the water completely drained from the tank).

Observe Pressure Switch:

Watch the pressure gauge. Note the pressure when the pump turns on (cut-in) and when it turns off (cut-off). If these values are erratic or very close together, the switch might be faulty.

Dangers of Ignoring: Short cycling leads to premature pump motor failure, higher electricity bills (due to frequent starts), and potential for bigger leaks to go unnoticed.

When to Call a Plumber:

If the pressure tank bladder is ruptured, if recharging the air doesn’t solve the issue, if the pressure switch is malfunctioning, or if you cannot find a leak after a thorough check, it’s time to call a plumber. They can replace tanks, switches, and perform advanced leak detection.

4. Pump Runs Continuously (Will Not Shut Off)

The opposite of short cycling, this issue means your water pump not working as it should by turning off. It runs without ceasing, indicating a problem with the system’s ability to reach its cut-off pressure or to hold that pressure.

Why It Happens:

Significant Leak: A large, undetected leak in your system means the pump can never build up enough pressure to reach the cut-off point. This could be a burst pipe, a major toilet leak, or a broken underground line.
Faulty Pressure Switch: The pressure switch itself might be defective, stuck in the “on” position, or its sensing tube is blocked, preventing it from registering that sufficient pressure has been reached.
Low Well/Borehole Yield: If the well or borehole isn’t providing enough water, the pump will struggle to maintain constant pressure and will just keep running, trying to compensate. This is a common problem for borehole pump not working effectively during dry seasons.
Damaged Pump Impeller/Components: Worn-out impellers or other internal pump parts can prevent the pump from generating its full pressure, leading it to run continuously in an attempt to reach an unreachable cut-off point.
Open Faucet/Running Appliance: Sometimes the simplest explanation is true – an open garden hose or a constantly running appliance might be the cause.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Shut Off All Water Outlets: Turn off every faucet, shower, toilet, and appliance that uses water. Listen for any sound of water running within the house (e.g., in walls or toilets).
Check Water Meter: If you have a municipal backup or a main line, check the water meter. If it’s still moving with all water turned off, you have a leak.
Inspect Pressure Switch: With power off. Carefully check the pressure switch for obvious signs of damage or corrosion. The small tube leading to the switch might be clogged.
Listen to Well/Borehole: If it’s a submersible pump, listen for unusual sounds from the well (if audible).

Dangers of Ignoring: Continuous running will cause the pump motor to burn out prematurely, lead to very high electricity bills, and can exacerbate underlying leak issues.

When to Call a Plumber:

If you’ve ensured all water outlets are off and the pump still runs, or if you suspect a major leak, a faulty pressure switch, or a problem with the well’s yield, it’s time to call a plumber. They have the expertise and tools for accurate leak detection, pressure switch replacement, and well yield assessment.

5. Noisy Pump Operation: The Loud Complaint

A healthy water pump should operate with a consistent, low hum. If you start hearing new, louder, or unusual noises, it’s a clear warning sign your pipes are failing or, more specifically, your pump is in distress.

Why It Happens:

Grinding/Screeching: Often indicates worn-out motor bearings or a failing impeller rubbing against the casing. This is a serious mechanical issue.
Clicking: Can be associated with the pressure switch engaging and disengaging, or a relay within the pump’s control box.
Humming (without pumping): If the motor hums but the pump doesn’t engage, it could be a seized impeller or a faulty start capacitor.
Gurgling/Sucking: As discussed, this often means the pump is losing its prime or has an air leak in the suction line.
Vibration: Excessive vibration can be caused by loose mounting bolts, a damaged impeller, or cavitation (water vaporizing inside the pump due to low pressure).

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Listen Carefully: Try to pinpoint the exact location and type of noise.
Check Mounting Bolts: Ensure the pump is securely mounted and not vibrating excessively against its base. Tighten any loose bolts.
Inspect Visible Plumbing: Look for any loose pipes around the pump that might be vibrating.
Check for Air Leaks (if gurgling): Re-prime surface pumps and inspect suction lines.

Dangers of Ignoring: Mechanical noises like grinding or screeching are precursors to catastrophic pump failure. A seized motor can burn out quickly.

When to Call a Plumber:

Any persistent, unusual, or loud mechanical noise (grinding, screeching, loud humming without pumping) is a strong indicator of internal damage. These are times when to call a plumber immediately to prevent complete pump failure and more expensive repairs.

6. Cloudy or Sandy Water

When your water supply suddenly appears cloudy, murky, or contains visible sand or silt, it’s a critical warning sign your pipes are failing or, more specifically, that your well/borehole and pump system are compromised.

Why It Happens:

Low Well Water Level: If the water level in your well or borehole drops too low, the pump might start drawing from the bottom, pulling in sediment and sand.
Damaged Well Screen/Liner: The well screen (a filter at the bottom of the well casing) can corrode, crack, or become damaged, allowing sediment to enter. A damaged well casing or liner will also allow particulate matter in.
Pump Set Too Low: If a submersible pump is installed too close to the bottom of the well, it can stir up sediment.
New Well/Borehole: If it’s a newly drilled borehole, some sediment during initial operation is normal, but it should clear quickly.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Allow Water to Settle: Let a glass of water sit for a few minutes. If sediment settles at the bottom, it’s a particulate problem.
Check for Recent Events: Have there been heavy rains recently that could have affected the well? Or has there been nearby construction?
Run Water for a While: Sometimes, running water from an outdoor spigot for an hour or two can clear up temporary sediment issues, but only do this if your well has sufficient yield.

Dangers of Ignoring: Pumping sand and silt through your system can cause significant wear and tear on your pump’s impellers, valves, and other internal components, leading to premature failure. It can also clog your household plumbing and damage appliances.

When to Call a Plumber/Well Specialist:

Persistent cloudy or sandy water is a strong sign of aging plumbing or a compromised well. This indicates a deep-seated problem that requires professional intervention. A well specialist or plumber can perform a well inspection (often with a camera), determine if the screen is damaged, and assess the well’s recovery rate. They might recommend raising the pump, repairing the screen, or well rehabilitation.

7. Pump Trips Breaker Repeatedly

If your circuit breaker for the pump keeps tripping, even after a reset, this is a severe warning sign your pipes are failing or that the pump motor itself is in serious trouble. Never continuously reset a tripping breaker, as this is a fire hazard.

Why It Happens:

Motor Overload/Failure: The most common cause. The pump motor might be drawing excessive current due to worn bearings, a seized impeller, internal winding damage, or a short circuit within the motor.
Grounded Wire: An electrical wire in the pump or wiring may be touching the metal casing, creating a short circuit.
Undersized Breaker: The circuit breaker itself might be too small for the pump’s starting load, though this is less common for established installations.
Voltage Issues: Incorrect voltage supply (too high or too low) can cause the motor to overwork and trip the breaker.
Pump Jammed: If debris has jammed the impeller, the motor will struggle, draw excessive current, and trip the breaker. This is common for borehole pump not working properly after a collapse or foreign material falling in.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Immediately Stop Resetting: The most crucial step. A tripping breaker is a safety device doing its job.
Listen and Observe: Did you hear any unusual noises before the trip? Did the pump try to start?

Dangers of Ignoring: Repeatedly tripping a breaker can cause damage to your home’s electrical system, melt wiring, and create a significant fire risk. It will also quickly destroy your pump motor.

When to Call a Plumber/Electrician:

If the breaker trips immediately or repeatedly after being reset, do not attempt further troubleshooting yourself. This is a critical situation when to call a plumber (who is often also skilled in pump electrics) or a qualified electrician. They will use specialized diagnostic tools (like an amp meter) to test the motor, wiring, and other electrical components to pinpoint the exact cause of the fault.

8. Air Sputtering from Faucets

If you’re getting bursts of air along with your water, even when you haven’t recently had a plumbing repair, it’s a warning sign your pipes are failing to maintain a sealed system, or your pump is struggling.

Why It Happens:

Low Well Water Level: If the water level in your well or borehole drops close to the pump’s intake, the pump may start drawing in air along with water.
Air Leak in Suction Line: For surface pumps, a leak in the suction line (the pipe bringing water from the source to the pump) can allow air to be drawn into the system.
Faulty Foot Valve/Check Valve: A check valve that isn’t holding can allow water to drain back into the well, and air to enter the line, leading to the pump sucking air on restart.
Pressure Tank Issues: While less common, a severely waterlogged or improperly charged pressure tank can sometimes contribute to air in the lines.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Check Well Level (if possible): As mentioned, a very low well can introduce air.
Inspect Visible Suction Lines: Look for any visible leaks or loose connections.
Run Water to Bleed Air: Sometimes, just running all the faucets for a few minutes can clear trapped air, but if it’s persistent, there’s an ongoing source.

Dangers of Ignoring: Pumping air is inefficient and can cause damage to the pump’s impeller. A continuous source of air indicates a fault that could lead to pump failure or a more significant water supply issue.

When to Call a Plumber:

If the air sputtering is persistent and you can’t identify a simple source, it’s time to call a plumber. They can perform a thorough inspection of your well, pump, and all associated piping to locate and repair the air leak or address the low water level issue.

9. Pump is Old (Beyond Its Lifespan)

Sometimes, the most significant warning sign your pipes are failing or that your pump is about to fail is simply its age. Like all mechanical devices, water pumps have a finite lifespan, and continuing to repair an ancient pump can be a false economy.

Typical Lifespan of Water Pumps:

Submersible Pumps: Typically 8-15 years, though some higher-quality units can last 20-25 years.
Jet Pumps (Surface): Often 10-15 years.
Booster Pumps: Can vary, but typically 5-10 years depending on usage and quality.

Why It Matters:

Wear and Tear: Internal components (impellers, bearings, seals, motor windings) degrade over time due to constant use, friction, and exposure to water.
Decreased Efficiency: Older pumps become less energy-efficient, drawing more power to do the same job.
Obsolete Parts: As pumps age, finding replacement parts becomes difficult or impossible, making repairs expensive or unfeasible.
Increased Breakdown Risk: The older the pump, the higher the likelihood of unexpected and costly breakdowns.

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Check Installation Date: If you have records, find out when the pump was installed.
Assess Repair Costs vs. Replacement: If your old pump requires a significant repair (e.g., motor replacement), compare that cost to the cost of a new, more efficient pump. Often, replacement is the more economical long-term choice.

Dangers of Ignoring: Waiting for an old pump to fail completely means dealing with an emergency, often at the most inconvenient time, and potentially paying premium rates for emergency service.

When to Call a Plumber:

If your pump is nearing or has exceeded its expected lifespan and you’re experiencing any of the other issues on this list, it’s time to call a plumber to discuss replacement options. Investing in a new, energy-efficient pump from Winstar Hardware can save you money on utility bills and provide years of reliable water supply.or has exceeded its expected lifespan and you’re experiencing any of the other issues on this list, it’s time to call a plumber to discuss replacement options. Investing in a new, energy-efficient pump from Winstar Hardware can save you money on utility bills and provide years of reliable water supply.

Issue	Common Causes	DIY Troubleshooting Steps	When to Call a Professional
No Power (Silent Pump)	Tripped breaker, power outage, loose wiring	Check breaker/fuse, power outlet, reset button.	Breaker trips repeatedly, no power after checks.
Runs but No Water/Low Pressure	Loss of prime, low well water, clogged line	Re-prime (surface pump), check well level, inspect visible lines.	Persistent prime loss, low well level, suspected impeller damage.
Short Cycling	Waterlogged pressure tank, pressure switch, small leak	Check for leaks, inspect pressure tank bladder/pressure.	Ruptured tank bladder, faulty switch, unidentified leak.
Runs Continuously	Major leak, faulty pressure switch, low well yield	Shut off all water, check water meter, inspect pressure switch.	Major leak, faulty switch, low well yield.
Noisy Operation	Worn bearings, seized impeller, air in line	Listen carefully, check mounting, inspect for air leaks.	Grinding, screeching, loud hum (no water), internal damage.
Cloudy/Sandy Water	Low well level, damaged well screen	Let water settle, run hose, check for recent events.	Persistent issue, suspected well damage.
Trips Breaker Repeatedly	Motor overload/failure, short circuit	STOP RESETTING.	Immediately, indicates serious electrical/motor fault.
Air Sputtering	Low well level, air leak in suction line	Check well level, inspect visible suction lines.	Persistent issue, hidden air leak.
Pump is Old	Natural wear and tear, beyond lifespan	Check installation date, compare repair vs. replacement costs.	Nearing/exceeded lifespan, combined with other issues.

Common Water Pump Issues, Causes & Solutions

10. Water Tastes or Smells Strange

While not always a direct sign of a mechanical pump issue, a sudden change in the taste or smell of your water is a serious warning sign your pipes are failing or that your water source is contaminated. This is particularly critical for borehole or well water.

Why It Happens:

Bacterial Contamination: A common issue with well water, leading to a rotten egg smell (hydrogen sulfide) or a metallic/earthy taste. This can be due to a breach in the well casing, a failing well seal, or surface runoff entering the well.
Chemical Contamination: Can result from agricultural runoff, industrial spills, or even corrosion of old pipes leaching heavy metals (like lead or copper) into your water.
Sediment/Organic Matter: Excessive sediment or decaying organic matter in the well can give water an earthy or musty taste.
Corroding Pipes: As mentioned in other points, failing pipes can impart metallic tastes (from iron or copper rust) or even a plastic taste (from deteriorating PVC/PEX if exposed to certain chemicals).

Water Pump Troubleshooting Steps:

Isolate the Source: Does the taste/smell come from all taps (hot and cold), or just one? If it’s only from the hot water, the water heater might be the source of the issue (e.g., anode rod problems).
Contact Neighbors: Check if your neighbors on the same water source are experiencing similar problems.
Do NOT Drink the Water: If the taste or smell is strong or unusual, do not consume the water until it has been tested.

Dangers of Ignoring: Contaminated water poses serious health risks, ranging from gastrointestinal illness to long-term exposure to heavy metals or harmful chemicals.

When to Call a Professional Immediately:

Any persistent or strong change in water taste or smell is a critical situation when to call a plumber or a well water specialist and have your water tested by a certified laboratory immediately. This isn’t just a pump issue; it’s a potential health crisis. They can diagnose well integrity, identify sources of contamination, and recommend solutions like well disinfection or filtration systems. Check out our article on why a water filter is essential for your home.

Conclusion: Your Reliable Water Supply Starts Here

Experiencing a water pump not working can be incredibly stressful, but by understanding the common issues and following these water pump troubleshooting steps, you can often diagnose the problem yourself. For minor issues, Winstar Hardware is your trusted partner for high-quality replacement parts, tools, and expert advice to get your pump humming again and ensure a reliable water supply.

However, remember that some problems—especially those involving electrical faults, compromised wells, major leaks, or significant internal pump damage—are best left to the professionals. Knowing when to call a plumber not only protects your investment in your home’s water system but, more importantly, ensures your safety and the continuous flow of clean water for your family. Don’t let a borehole pump not working turn into a crisis; be proactive, use this guide, and trust in the expertise available at Winstar Hardware.